May 4, 2023, I spent a lovely late spring afternoon on the nearby Wheeler National Wildlife Refuge. I offer reflections, observations, photographs, and five brief videos from my six-stop wanderings within a five-mile driving radius: gravel road wildlife; riparian forest; Tennessee River; Blackwell Swamp; January 2, 2021 tornado recovery forest; Beaverdam Swamp Boardwalk.

Jolly B Road — Gravel Road Wildlife

I entered the Refuge about 15 miles due south of my Madison, Alabama residence, turning from County Line Road east onto gravel Jolly B Road. About a mile into the Refuge I stopped to admire (and usher from the road surface) a five-foot long grey rat-snake. The snake certainly has a right to sun on the road, but I feared that other driver’s may be less apt to recognize the snake’s privilege.

I recorded this 29-second video as the snake slithered into the forest.

Within a quarter mile, this incredibly muddy cooter turtle was near the road edge about to enter the forest. Once again I braked to capture an image. I would love to have the turtle’s explanation for its supremely mud-caked carapace!

Speaking of privilege, I felt fortunate to visit with two reptilian friends along Jolly B Road!

Riparian Forest

Within four hundred yards, I turned west onto HGH Road, parking a half-mile further, where I entered the riparian hardwood forest, one of my routine exploration areas. I’m never disappointed by what I find hidden in plain sight. This large black oak presented itself. Two features suggested its heart-rot-hollowed trunk. Its swollen base is an external signal of internal decay. It also provided a direct peephole into its hollow core at roughly five feet above the ground. A squirrel left its teeth-gnaw marks around the hole’s perimeter, as the rodent attempted to prevent the tree from callousing over the point of entry. This is apparently a family den tree for the aerial rodents. The tree may also furnish habitat for chipmunks, snakes, birds, lizards, and other forest residents.

I recorded this 1:02 video of our black oak family tree:

I found one of my favorite fall-fruiting plants in full spring flower, strawberry bush or hearts-a-bustin’. Their soft yellow-green flowers give little hint to their special fall-fruit-glory (see public domain image below).

The aptly-named hearts-a-bustin’ fruit.

Public Domain Image

Along the Tennessee River

The entire Wheeler National Wildlife Refuge exists around its Lake Wheeler core, the body of water created by Wheeler Dam 40 miles downstream on the Tennessee River at Rogersville, Alabama. The shoreline below is a little more than a mile south of the riparian forest. I chose (it chose me) a picture-perfect day of cerulean sky, high white clouds (alto cumulus), and light breezes to wander the Refuge.

As I strive to do, I captured a short (20-second) video to amplify my narrative and still photos.

The Refuge manages some 4,000 acres for crop production under an arrangement that calls for leaving a percentage of the crop for winter wildlife food. The contract agricultural operator was sowing seed this day in the fields adjacent to the river.

Here’s my 0:18 video of seeding underway in the agricultural fields adjacent to the river:

Dazzling clouds and magnificent sky bring life to the river and its adjoining forests and fields!

Blackwell Swamp

Blackwell Swamp lies just a few hundred yards north of the Tennessee River, the swamp created by a Refuge drainage gate that impounds water, thus artificially keeping the swamp well-watered year-round, all in the interest of maintaining waterfowl habitat. I snapped the photo below from the gravel road crossing the wooded outflow at the gate.

The swamp offers a welcome habitat break from the continuous riparian forests that border the swamp. Again, cerulean sky, fresh summer greens, ample wetland vegetation, and plenty of associated wildlife.

I recorded this  sound- and sight-dense 30-second video from the southwest shore of the swamp, the same location as the two photos above.

Tornado Recovery

January 1, 2022 an EF-1 tornado dropped from a strong cold front adjacent to the swamp’s northern end, approximately 1.5 miles from the earlier swamp photo points.

I’ve been monitoring forest recovery since I first discovered the twister track March 22, 2022, when I photographed the shattered bur oak below left.  I revisited the shattered tree May 27, 2022 (below right) following green-up. Already, the oak was fighting back, transferring root reserves to growing resurgent foliage.

May 4, 2023, I made the fifth of six stops at the bur oak. Nature equips all living organisms with the genetic capacity to overcome setbacks. The bur oak, and the entire “destroyed” forest within which it stands, is rebounding remarkably. The tornado did not destroy this 80-90 year old forest. Instead, the storm delayed the forest’s rush toward maturity. It remains a forest, albeit altered.

Nature is always lovely, invincible, glad, whatever is done and suffered by her creatures. All scars she heals, whether in rocks or water or sky or hearts. John Muir

Beaverdam Creek Boardwalk

I made my sixth stop at the Beaverdam Creek Swamp National Natural Landmark, an ancient water tupelo swamp transected by a boardwalk, reconstructed during summer 2022. I see little need to offer detailed reflections and observations. Suffice it to say that this is one of my favorite Nature-destinations in north Alabama. This special place exudes its magic and mystery.

I recorded this 15-second video from the boardwalk, telling a palpable visual and audio tale.:

The great tupelos reach back at least two centuries, having born witness to many seasons, storms, droughts, deep cold, and searing heat. Oh, if only we could hear their stories!

Six stops on an early summer day, a rich sampling of a small corner of a magnificent national natural treasure. I’ve resided nearby since January 2018. I’ve met many people who have lived in the area far longer, yet have never visited the swamp. I am blessed to have such a special place in my backyard. However, so many of the long-term residents know nothing about the Refuge. Perhaps Posts such as this will find their way to those who have not yet sampled the mental, physical, emotional, and spiritual fruits of this exquisite slice of Nature.

Thoughts and Reflections

I offer these observations:

• Nature is a panoply — a magnificent or impressive array.
• The Wheeler National Wildlife Refuge is a 38,000-acre ecosystem potpourri.
• Nature appreciation involves seeing and understanding both the components and the whole!

Inhale and absorb Nature’s elixir. May Nature Inspire, Inform, and Reward you!

If only more of us viewed our precious environment through the filters I employ. If only my mission and vision could be multiplied untold orders of magnitude:

Steve’s Three Books

I wrote my books Nature Based Leadership (2016), Nature-Inspired Learning and Leading (2017), and Weaned Seals and Snowy Summits: Stories of Passion for Place and Everyday Nature (2019; co-authored with Dr. Jennifer Wilhoit) to encourage all citizens to recognize and appreciate that every lesson for living, learning, serving, and leading is either written indelibly in or is powerfully inspired by Nature.

I began writing books and Posts for several reasons:

• I love hiking and exploring in Nature
• I see images I want to (and do) capture with my trusty iPhone camera
• I enjoy explaining those images — an educator at heart
• I don’t play golf!
• I actually do love writing — it’s the hobby I never needed when my career consumed me
• Judy suggested my writing is in large measure my legacy to our two kids, our five grand kids, and all the unborn generations beyond
• And finally, perhaps my books and Blogs could reach beyond family and touch a few other lives… sow some seeds for the future

All three of my books (Nature Based Leadership; Nature-Inspired Learning and Leading; Weaned Seals and Snowy Summits) present compilations of personal experiences expressing my (and co-author Dr. Wilhoit for Weaned Seals and Snowy Summits) deep passion for Nature. All three books offer observations and reflections on my relationship to the natural world… and the broader implications for society. Order any and all from your local indie bookstore, or find them on IndieBound or other online sources such as Amazon and LifeRich.

I am pleased to post the 14th of my new GBH Brief Form Posts to my website (Less than three-minutes to read! Not including the brief video). I tend to get a bit long-winded with my routine Posts. I don’t want my enthusiasm for thoroughness and detail to discourage readers. So I will publish the brief Posts regularly.

I visited Alabama’s Joe Wheeler State Park the evening of May 10, 2023. I focus this Brief Post on the spectacular dawn and sunrise May 11 from the pier at the Park’s Lodge pier.

Early in my career I reported to a WWII veteran who set our starting time at 7:00 AM (which translated to 6:45!), at our Working Circle Forest office and shop deep within one of our company owned tracts 40 minutes from our first apartment. I’ve been addicted to dawn ever since.

I awoke May 10 by 4:30 and stood at the pier by 5:30 AM, when I snapped this dawn image to the east, looking beyond the Park marina.

Twelve minutes later I recorded this 2:22 video. I can’t recall capturing a more complete dawn video. I can’t imagine a more compelling combination of sky, clouds, light, and sounds — serenity, tranquility, and peace!

By 5:57 AM, dawn showed signs of progressing toward sunrise.

By 6:08 AM I officially observed the rising sun!

I accept the challenge of distilling these Brief-Form Posts to a single distinct reflection. Sometimes, I borrow such a reflection from the truly great conservation minds of antiquity, for no matter how hard I try, I am unable to best those whom I have followed and revered across my seven-plus decades. In this case, it is Leonardo da Vinci who captured the moment 500 years ago:

• Of the original phenomena, light is the most enthralling.

Inhale and absorb Nature’s elixir. May Nature Inspire, Inform, and Reward you!

NOTE: I place 3-5 short videos (15-seconds to three minutes), like the one in this Post, on my Steve Jones Great Blue Heron YouTube channel weekly. All relate to Nature-Inspired Life and Living. I encourage you to SUBSCRIBE! It’s FREE. Having more subscribers helps me spread my message of Informed and Responsible Earth Stewardship…locally and globally!

I am pleased to offer the 13th of my new GBH Brief Form Posts (Less than three-minutes to read!) to my website. I tend to get a bit long-winded with my routine Posts. I don’t want my enthusiasm for thoroughness and detail to discourage readers. So I will publish these brief Posts regularly.

Brief-Form Post on Spectacular May 4, 2023 Sky and Clouds

I ventured south fifteen miles from my residence to the east-central arm of the Wheeler National Wildlife Refuge, with no particular purpose in mind beyond inhaling Nature’s late spring/early summer elixir. I’ll publish a future Post offering a wider taste of what I experienced. For this Brief-Form Post I restrict my focus and observations to the glory of the day’s firmament. I stood along the Tennessee River’s north shore, capturing the blue sky and high clouds above the distant shore.

I recorded this 2o-second video nearby, looking south across the river:

The Refuge manages some 4,000 acres for crop production under an arrangement that calls for leaving a percentage of the crop for winter wildlife food. The contract agricultural operator was planting seed this day in the fields adjacent to the river. A perfect sky!

I proceeded to Blackwell Swamp a quarter-of-a-mile north of the river, rewarded there by the same incredible sky.

I recorded this 31-second video of the full package of images and sounds signaling the beauty, magic, wonder, awe, and inspiration of Nature within the reach of my daily Nature-ramblings!

I accept the challenge of distilling these Brief-Form Posts to a single distinct reflection, a task far more elusive than assembling a dozen pithy statements. Sometimes, I borrow a distinct reflection from the truly great minds of antiquity, for no matter how hard I try I am unable to best those whom I have followed and revered across my seven-plus decades. In this case, it is Leonardo da Vinci who captured the moment 500+ years ago:

• Once you have tasted the essence of sky, you will forever look up. 

NOTE: I place 3-5 short videos (15-seconds to three minutes) on my Steve Jones Great Blue Heron YouTube channel weekly. All relate to Nature-Inspired Life and Living. I encourage you to SUBSCRIBE! It’s FREE. Having more subscribers helps me spread my message of Informed and Responsible Earth Stewardship…locally and globally!

March 11, 2023, I returned to the nearby Wheeler National Wildlife Refuge. It’s my place of observation, reflection, and discovery. I have no preconceived notion of what specifically awaits me, yet I do know generally what to expect seasonally. Almost 30 years ago to the day (March 13, 1993), the Blizzard of ’93 brought 65 MPH gusts and 28 inches of new snow to our State College, PA home. I knew my visit to the Refuge would fall smack in the middle of spring…winter long since departed.

I’ll hit the highlights, beginning with Blackwell Swamp and its visual delights, and then shift to riparian forest discoveries. Although I enjoy roaming hardwood bottomland forests, the Swamp offers sweeping views, including the sky above. The forest is very stingy with such views, especially during the growing season. March 11 the forest canopy still permitted a peek to the firmament, even in the forest.

Blackwell Swamp

The Swamp never disappoints.  The views below, respectively, are to the northeast (left) and southeast. Predominantly loblolly pine populates the peninsula to the left. The stand across from the second photo is flowering, given the still leaf-bare crowns a fuzzy appearance. Swamp aquatic vegetation is beginning to foliate.

Willow, elms, and maples are approaching full flower south of my viewpoint.

The photos below are nearly identical repeats from above, differing only in the way I have framed them with foreground trees and used a portrait image to bring in more sky.

I’ve found that stopping by Blackwell Swamp relieves the occasional claustrophobia that can envelop me when I spend hours in the closed riparian flatwoods.

Spring Wildflower Menagerie

The forest canopy remains nearly wide open during the second week of March, drawing me to her this time of year. The canopy is awakening even as the spring ephemeral ground vegetation is already wide awake, with the spring sun kissing the forest floor full-lipped. Sweet Betsy trillium are in full flower, a delight I will never tire of seeing each spring, whether one or dozens lie ahead.

John Muir recognized that Nature’s beauty, magic, wonder, and awe touch us deeply:

The trees wave and the flowers bloom in our bodies as well as our souls.

Woodland phlox (right) and bulbous cress revel in the seasonal forest floor sunlight. They’ll be long gone after the canopy closes. Their seasonal life-window closes before the frenzied hordes of mosquitoes greet me when I return during the early summer.

Native deciduous mountain azalea is another of my lifetime favorites. It always sparks treasured memories of my three college-summer employment positions with the Maryland Forest Service in the central Appalachians. Some of my best memories involve work or recreation in forest ecosystems. I recall wise advisors who urged me, “Do what you love and you will never work a day in your life.”

I’ve been blessed to do just that. Sure, I recall days when pressures and stress mounted, yet my positive recollections brighten the darker memories, driving shadows deep into crevices. Life is good when I can see red buckeye heavy with its spiked red blossoms, torches of crimson held high in the spring understory.

Other wildflowers greeted me. These few allstars will suffice.

Other Treats

I practice scouring the forest for more than spring ephemerals, trying hard not to miss various and sundry treats.

Devil’s Urn Mushroom

I’ve learned to appreciate our fungal friends since retiring. I can no longer race through the forest. First, my 70+ year old  knees forbid speedy locomotion. And second, I want to see all that lies hidden in plain sight. My MO is sauntering these days, permitting me to spot camouflaged forest floor dwellers like these devil’s urn mushrooms. Their name alone is worth the price of admission!

Devil’s urns are edible, albeit with mixed reviews. Some people find the taste strong and the appearance unappetizing. I have tried them and find them fine as a snappy snack food when fried and still warm. Don’t take my word for what mushrooms may or may not be edible. You’re on your own.

Natural Organic Oil Sheen

I recall thinking when the Exon Valdez ran aground in March 1989, that Prince William Sound was ruined forever. Yet 21 years later Judy and I spent a glorious weekend fishing and cruising in the Sound, enjoying the incredible beauty and bounty of mountains, forests, glaciers, eagles, shoreline bears, and unparalleled marine life. Just 13 years ago, the Deepwater Horizon platform ruptured in the Gulf of Mexico. Both instances amounted unquestionably to serious environmental catastrophes. However, in neither case did the disaster introduce some exotic unnatural substance to the environment. Fossil oil has been around for millions of years, occasionally leaking into the surface environment, where microbes consumed it…microbes accustomed to metabolizing natural oils. Humans cleaning up both disasters made use of such natural mechanisms.

I offer that as preface to my finding a natural oil sheen on surface water in the still-saturated riparian sites. Organic matter breaks down in these swamp-like bottom lands. Natural oil is one component of the process. I believe that most of us think of oil as a pollutant. Instead, oil is a fundamental by-product of natural processes. The sheen below is as natural as the emerging green vegetation.

The forest floor in these dormant season saturated bottomland is a mosaic of micro-hummocks and hollows.  These small rises are mossy micro-islands, sprouting a sweetgum seedling at left and small herbs I could not identify at right. Both patches have tiny bluets in flower.

The forests I wander vary both at broadscale and at the micro level. The astute observer examines all scales.

Old Homesite Well

History also lies hidden in plain sight. The riparian forest (below) naturally regenerated following agriculture and mixed use abandonment when TVA and the Corps of Engineers acquired the land and associated buffer for Wheeler Dam and its flooded basin. I discovered this deep water-filled depression, which I believe is an old well, just 100 feet from the buffer edge (the northern boundary of the Refuge…the open sky beyond), suggesting that a home stood nearby. I found several old bricks on the site.

The Wheeler Project (A Comprehensive Report on the Planning, Design, Construction, and Initial Operations of the Wheeler Project): Technical Report No. 2 (USGPS 1940), tells the story of Wheeler dam in great detail. The TVA acquired a total of 97,097 acres in 1,296 tracts. Crews cleared 31, 228 acres of forest. The project relocated 779 tenants. The operation moved 3,100 graves from 42 cemeteries. Surely a project of this scale forced abandonment of numerous homesites, included primary residences, associated outbuildings, privies, and wells. What are the chances that I would stumble upon one? I’ve witnessed first hand that Nature hides her secrets effectively over 90 years. I’m fortunate to wander these forests when some evidence of past land use persists. I shall remain a consummate forensic ecologist, searching for hints of prior occupation and use.

A Common Garter Snake

I realize that I am just a visitor to the riparian ecosystem. Other inhabitants often stay out of sight. This healthy common garter snake presented itself in a patch of forest floor sunlight.

We made our acquaintance, carefully said our hello, and released this fine creature onto the warmth of the ground.

Thoughts and Reflections

I offer these observations:

• Blackwell Swamp relieves the occasional claustrophobia that can envelop me in closed riparian flatwoods.
• The trees wave and the flowers bloom in our bodies as well as our souls! (John Muir)
• Human and natural history also lie hidden in plain sight within our forests. 

Inhale and absorb Nature’s elixir. May Nature Inspire, Inform, and Reward you!

If only more of us viewed our precious environment through the filters I employ. If only my mission and vision could be multiplied untold orders of magnitude:

Steve’s Three Books

I wrote my books Nature Based Leadership (2016), Nature-Inspired Learning and Leading (2017), and Weaned Seals and Snowy Summits: Stories of Passion for Place and Everyday Nature (2019; co-authored with Dr. Jennifer Wilhoit) to encourage all citizens to recognize and appreciate that every lesson for living, learning, serving, and leading is either written indelibly in or is powerfully inspired by Nature.

I began writing books and Posts for several reasons:

• I love hiking and exploring in Nature
• I see images I want to (and do) capture with my trusty iPhone camera
• I enjoy explaining those images — an educator at heart
• I don’t play golf!
• I actually do love writing — it’s the hobby I never needed when my career consumed me
• Judy suggested my writing is in large measure my legacy to our two kids, our five grand kids, and all the unborn generations beyond
• And finally, perhaps my books and Blogs could reach beyond family and touch a few other lives… sow some seeds for the future

All three of my books (Nature Based Leadership; Nature-Inspired Learning and Leading; Weaned Seals and Snowy Summits) present compilations of personal experiences expressing my (and co-author Dr. Wilhoit for Weaned Seals and Snowy Summits) deep passion for Nature. All three books offer observations and reflections on my relationship to the natural world… and the broader implications for society. Order any and all from your local indie bookstore, or find them on IndieBound or other online sources such as Amazon and LifeRich.

This Post takes a different approach: not just Nature’s contribution to the quality of my life, but a medical intervention intended to keep me in the game of life!

Scheduled for left knee replacement surgery, doctors suggested a ticker evaluation. Here’s the resultant life-awakening sequence:

The Tunnel of Darkness

The Window of Light and Promise Beyond